After being asked about some aspects of the mechanical design and components used a few times, I’d like to address those questions. I have to admit that I’m neither very good at the mechanical design, nor do I have a 3d printer (yet) or a shop where I can do metal work myself. That being said, I was still able to design a reasonably professional looking device and bring it to life with the help of modern prototyping services.
|Case||ELMA, Stylebox 15 Standard;|
2 RU, 42HP (half 19″)
|Probably fairly expensive when bought new|
|Front/Rear panels||1.6mm Aluminium PCB with white solder mask and black silk screen||Didn’t want to have a conductor left floating (potentially), so I removed the copper|
|New Rotary knob||3d printed (MJF)||Most pictures were taken with the old temporary knob|
|Push buttons||C&K/littlefuse PVA series switches with matching caps||Different force ratings available|
|Line switch||C&K NE18 series switch||Can be a pain in the *** to design and print a connecting rod if the switch is located far back in the unit. I just used a thin wood rod and some tiny shaft coupling to connect the rod with the switch. Seems to work just fine. A 3d printed part would be more professional, no doubt about it|
|Red filter for display||Color filter, Red foil, 0.3mm; random amazon product; glued to the back of the front panel||Works surprisingly well, however it’s obviously not as strong as acrylic glas. Reminds me of the HP/Agilent 66xx series power supplies (and other products) with the thin foil covering their LCD displays. Wouldn’t like that for commercial use 😉|
There will be a separate post where I explain the fairly straight forward process of designing the front and rear panels.